It’s really not my style to ridicule the appearance of others, however after seeing a few sartorial offences committed on the Golden Globes’ red carpet, I felt it pertinent to compile a small list of do’s and dont’s. Think of it as a list of what to avoid when buying/wearing a suit.
It is evident to me that the fine and very stylish gents in the photo to follow, whilst fashionably on point, have not had these suits made for them by a tailor. Rather they have been gifted a suit from a large design house, perhaps without even a fitting. Now I do acknowledge that my eye can be a little more critical than most others, but that is why I do what I do, and why I love it so much.
Here are some of the offenders:
Adam Driver – Poor Chest Break
Here Adam is wearing a beautiful velvet tuxedo, however the shoulders and the chest are clearly too small. Hence the lapels are folding over the chest, not draping as they should. If you encounter this, try going a size up.
Dave Holstein – Posture (Sway Back)
This could have been a great look, but unfortunately Dave’s posture sways backwards, which pushes his stomach out and places pressure on the waist area near the first button. His shoulders also roll backwards slightly which is why there is excessive gathering at the top part of the sleeve. This can be corrected by a good tailor, but ideally you should keep shopping around until you find a brand that suits your body shape, or see a bespoke tailor for the optimum fit.
Derek Hough – Narrow Shoulders
In this photo we can see Derek in a jacket, which is too narrow in the shoulders for him. This is why there is puckering under the arm and the sleeve head is pinching above his shoulders. This jacket is completely the wrong cut for Derek, he should have gone with one size bigger or even better, look for a jacket with a softer and more rounded shoulder finish. The jacket is also too short, which I believe exacerbates the issue of fit even further. Remember a jacket should always cover your crotch and your back side.
Troye Sivan – Oversized
Now I am aware that this look is quite intentional, however I do not believe it is a flattering look for the otherwise super cool Troye. The shoulders are too wide and literally falling off him. This same look could have had greater effect if the shoulders were a little more narrow and the jacket was cut in a little more around the waist. If you like this oversized look, make sure the suit you go for fits you well around the shoulders, or has additional padding to raise the sleeve head and drape nicely around your body.
William Jackson Harper – Puffy Sleeves
William has almost nailed this look, however his error is a very common one. This jacket appears to have been narrowed at the waist and is well fitted, but the sleeves are still too loose and have not been tapered to follow the more slender silhouette of the jacket. It is very easy to adjust, but often forgotten. If its a slim suit you are after, make sure the suit is a drop 7 or drop 8, which refers to circumference of the waist in relation to the chest measurement, a drop 8 is usually the slimmest. This jacket looks like it was a drop 6 (more classic cut) which has been slimmed down at the waist only.
If you would like to learn more about how a good suit should fit, or would like to discuss having one made especially for you, please follow this link to arrange a time to come in to my studio for a little one on one chat.
Photos courtesy of GQ Australia
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