Nov 13

Melbourne Cup Day

Melbourne Cup is all about colour. Other than the obligatory yellow rose, there are not nard and fast rules.  This year, I wanted to make a statement but I also wanted to use a cloth that I knew I would be able to wear again.  Sometimes the bold choices can be quite limiting but I love this beautiful wool and linen blend cloth from Lanificio F.lli Cerruti in Italy.

 

The cloth is from a very limited collection and is a muted blue with a broad pink check running though it.  The colours certainly make an impact but I particularly loved how different it looks in different light. I love a wool and linen blend, the cloth always has a little crunch the way linen should be but it tends to behave more like wool and has a lovely drape.  This specific cloth is a 50/50 blend that gives a lovely little wrinkle for a more relaxed aesthetic.

 

In keep with the more relaxed nature of the cloth, I finished the jacket in one of my classic styles, A “Tre Su Due” (Three-Roll-Two) with a broad notch lapel and enlarged pocket flaps.  This style is quite popular in Naples so it was fitting to hand finish the shoulders with la Spalla Napolitana (the Neapolitan shoulder). The sleeve head is attached to the shoulder by hand with a bit of gathering that results in a slight pucker and a minor raised sleeved head.  This is sprezzatura at its core.

 

Sprezzatura

/ˌsprɛtsəˈt(j)ʊərə/

noun

Studied carelessness, especially as a characteristic quality or style of art or literature.

 

The trousers were finished with side adjusters and a raised waistband for extra flare.  The waistband actually has two buttons with an added long extender.  I figured if I am embellishing the jacket with classic Neapolitan styling then the trousers need a bit of oomph too.

 

I wore a white oxford shirt with a subtle blue and pink unlined hand made silk tie. I believe some restraint needs to be shown when wearing such dominant patterns.

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